Day 12 — Franz Josef Glacier Heli-Hike → Greymouth
Thursday, April 2
The heli-hike is weather dependent — have a backup plan ready. If cancelled, the Franz Josef valley walk and Roberts Point Track are both excellent ground-level alternatives. Don't rush north to Greymouth if the operator offers an afternoon rescheduled slot — take it.
Before This Day
- [ ] Confirm heli-hike booking and check weather status the evening before — the operator will contact you, but check the forecast independently at MetService West Coast
- [ ] Have a backup plan ready if weather cancels — the West Coast is the wettest region in NZ and heli-hikes are cancelled several times a week in bad weather. Know the operator's rebooking and refund policy before the day. If cancelled, ask immediately about afternoon rescheduling before making other plans — do not check out of Rainforest Retreat before go/no-go confirmation
- [ ] Pack layers for the glacier — the ice surface is significantly colder than the valley floor even on a warm day. The operator provides boots, crampons, and jackets, but a thermal base layer and gloves are worth bringing
- [ ] Eat a proper breakfast before check-in — the hike is physical and runs through the morning
- [ ] Confirm Greymouth hotel is booked — Kingsgate Hotel Greymouth or Ashley Hotel are both reliable. Or Hokitika if staying there instead
Top 3 Things
- 🧊 Glacier Heli-Hike
- 🌲 Lake Mapourika
- 🚗 West Coast Drive
Daily Timeline
| Time | Activity |
|---|---|
| 6:00 AM | Breakfast in Franz Josef |
| 7:00 AM | Heli-hike check-in |
| 8:00 AM | ⭐ Franz Josef Glacier Heli-Hike (~3–4 hrs) |
| 12:00 PM | Return, lunch in Franz Josef |
| 2:00 PM | Afternoon walk — Franz Josef valley or Lake Mapourika |
| 3:30 PM | Depart Franz Josef north toward Greymouth |
| 5:30 PM | Arrive Greymouth, check in |
| 6:00 PM | Dinner in Greymouth |
Hotel: Greymouth
Notes
6:00 AM | Breakfast in Franz Josef
Eat before check-in — you'll be on the glacier for 3–4 hrs with no food. The heli-hike includes crampons and guides but not food.
7:00 AM | Heli-Hike Check-in
Check in at the operator's base in Franz Josef township — the main operators are Franz Josef Glacier Guides and Skydive Franz (glacier heli-hike division). The meeting point is on the main street; confirm the exact address when booking.
Operator gives go/no-go based on cloud ceiling. If cancelled, ask immediately about afternoon rescheduling before making other plans.
- Gear fitting happens at the base — boots, crampons, ice axe, and a fleece jacket are all provided. Bring sunglasses and sunscreen; the glacier surface reflects strongly
- Weather cancellation: If the flight cannot go, the operator will offer a rebooking (subject to availability) or a refund depending on the policy. Have the contact number saved
8:00 AM | Franz Josef Glacier Heli-Hike (~3–4 hrs)
Helicopter to the upper glacier, crampons on, guided walk through ice caves and seracs. The scale of the glacier from above is incomprehensible from the valley floor. Dress in warm layers — temperature on the ice is 5–8°C regardless of valley weather. Waterproof outer layer essential.
The flight: - The flight up the valley to the glacier takes about 10 minutes — the view from the helicopter of the icefall, the crevasse fields, and the surrounding peaks is itself worth the trip - The pilot sets down on a flat section of the upper glacier above the main icefall
On the glacier: - A certified guide leads the group across the ice for 2–3 hrs — the terrain includes crevasses, seracs (ice towers), blue ice caves, and meltwater channels. The colour of the ice in the caves is extraordinary — deep translucent blue that appears almost lit from within - Crampons grip the ice surface well; the walking is not technically difficult but requires confidence on uneven terrain - The guide cuts steps in harder sections and directs the route depending on ice conditions that day — no two heli-hikes cover exactly the same ground
Practical: - ~$490–550 NZD per person (confirm current pricing when booking) - Group size is typically 8–12 people per guide - Book well in advance — the afternoon slots fill first, which is why the 8:00 AM session is preferable - Franz Josef Glacier Guides
If the heli-hike is cancelled: The Franz Josef Glacier valley walk (~1.5 hrs return, easy) gives a ground-level glacier view — flat, well-formed track through the glacial valley. The Roberts Point Track (~5 hrs return, moderate) is the more committed alternative — climbs through rainforest to an elevated viewpoint directly above the glacier terminus. Both are excellent. Take whichever the day allows.
12:00 PM | Return, Lunch in Franz Josef
You'll be buzzing. Sit down properly and eat — it's ~2.5 hrs to Greymouth and there's nothing much en route.
Return to the base, return gear, and head to the main street for lunch. Franz Josef is a small strip of hotels and cafés — not much variety but enough.
- The Snakebite Brewery — the best food option in town, good vegetarian dishes, relaxed atmosphere after a big morning
- Alice May — casual café, reliable, good coffee
2:00 PM | Afternoon Walk (Optional)
If energy allows. Skip if tired — the drive to Greymouth is 2.5 hrs and an early night matters for Day 13's tide timing.
Lake Mapourika: - 8 km north of Franz Josef on SH6 — calm reflective lake surrounded by kahikatea forest. ~30 min walk around the shore. Significantly less visited than the glacier walks
Franz Josef Glacier Valley Walk (~1.5 hrs return, easy): - Flat track into the glacial valley — gives a ground-level glacier view to compare with this morning's aerial perspective. The waterfalls cascading off the valley walls are best appreciated from here
3:30 PM | Depart Franz Josef North Toward Greymouth (~175 km, ~2.5 hrs on SH6 north)
Route: Franz Josef → Whataroa → Hari Hari → Hokitika → Greymouth
SH6 north along the coast. Hokitika is ~1.5 hrs in — if you arrive before 5 PM and want a better overnight town than Greymouth, Hokitika has the glowworm dell (free, 10 min walk from town centre, go at dusk) and better dinner options. Worth considering as an overnight alternative if the day has gone well.
Leg 1 — Franz Josef to Hokitika (~145 km, ~2 hrs on SH6 north)
- Head north on SH6 — the road continues along the West Coast between the Southern Alps on the right and the Tasman Sea on the left
- The landscape gradually opens from the dense rainforest around Franz Josef into more pastoral West Coast farmland
- Whataroa (~35 km north) — home to the White Heron Sanctuary, the only breeding site of kōtuku (white heron/great egret) in New Zealand
- Hari Hari (~75 km north) — site of Guy Menzies' 1931 solo trans-Tasman landing, the first solo flight across the Tasman Sea. A replica aircraft marks the swamp he landed in
- The road passes several West Coast lagoons and river mouths — the wild surf beaches are visible through the bush on the left at multiple points. These are not safe swimming beaches
- Hokitika (~145 km north) — known for pounamu (greenstone/jade) carving. The Hokitika Gorge (Day 13 activity) is 30 min inland from here
Leg 2 — Hokitika to Greymouth (~40 km, ~30 min on SH6 north)
- Continue north on SH6 — flat, fast coastal driving
- Greymouth is the largest town on the West Coast — a working town, not a tourist destination, but a useful base and the western terminus of the TranzAlpine train
5:30 PM | Arrive Greymouth, Check In
Confirm hotel is booked — Kingsgate Hotel Greymouth or Ashley Hotel are both reliable options.
6:00 PM | Dinner in Greymouth
Greymouth is not a food destination — eat well and rest.
Vegetarian-friendly options: - Smelting House Café — best vegetarian-friendly option in Greymouth - Bonzai Pizzeria — reliable backup, good vegetarian pizzas
Franz Josef Glacier — What to Expect
The glacier is retreating rapidly. Franz Josef has lost significant length and thickness in recent decades — the terminus is now several kilometres further up the valley than it was 30 years ago, and the rate of retreat has accelerated. The heli-hike exists specifically because the terminus is no longer accessible on foot in a reasonable timeframe. The upper glacier where the heli-hike lands is still heavily glaciated, but the landscape is changing year on year.
Ice colour: The blue colour of glacier ice is a function of density — old, compressed ice has had all the air bubbles expelled, and the resulting density absorbs red wavelengths and transmits blue. The deeper and older the ice, the more intense the blue. The caves and crevasse walls visible on the heli-hike show this most clearly.
Weather: The West Coast receives some of the highest rainfall in New Zealand — Franz Josef averages over 5,000 mm per year. The mountains intercept moisture coming off the Tasman Sea and release it almost constantly. Clear days do occur, especially in autumn (April), but the forecast changes fast. The operator monitors conditions hourly on the morning of the hike.